We have spent the morning approaching Cabo San Lucas from the east, passing over the rich Gorda Banks as we go. On the western horizon the rounded domes of Cabo de los Frailes, or simply Friar's Rock, first poke their heads between the gray ocean and the gray sky. From a distance their appearance is reminiscent of the Franciscan Monks with their bald heads and flowing robes. Close up they reveal themselves to be the southernmost tip of the craggy, obstinate, granite spine of the Baja peninsula. Bashed by the forces of the Pacific Ocean on one side and the Sea of Cortez on the other, they have been eroded into dramatic arches and spires. Centuries ago English pirates hid behind them to swoop down upon Spanish galleons loaded with riches and today frigate birds hover over them to intercept brown boobies and cormorants returning with fishy treasures of their own. After a stay in Cabo San Lucas during which we snorkeled, bird watched and shopped, we took an even closer look at Friar's Rock, nearly nosing up to the arch itself. As we enjoyed a beautiful Pacific sunset a pair of gray whales surfaced in front of us as if to point our way north and west to Magdalena Bay where more of their kind await us.
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