Ndendo, Solomon Islands
Coral and Anemone Fish. Canoes and Kastom (Custom). Welcoming smiles and a Violent Volcano.
Our port of entry into our third Melanesian country, Solomon Islands, was the small village of Lata on the island of Ndendo. Once we had the official word that the paperwork for our entrance was completed we set off to explore the reefs in a channel between this larger island and a smaller nearby island. Snorkelers were in the water along a section of reef that dropped steeply to the dark depths. But the platform was anchored at the edge so a few feet in one direction the water was too shallow for snorkeling or boats, except for the local dugouts which we attracted as curiosity items to a few local children. In the other direction from the platform the reef edge provided wonderful views of the amazing variety of marine life inhabiting the reef. For a few, the glass bottom boat was the mode of seeing into the underwater world and staying dry while enjoying it. Cruising slowly over the reef in what seemed like only a few inches of water provided a chance to see and learn about the ecology and biology of the coral and associated animals from ship’s naturalist, Richard White.
In the afternoon the tide had risen enough for the Zodiacs to transport us ashore to the very tip of the island. Sticks had been placed in the shallow waters near the beach to help direct the drivers to a landing site. Ashore we proved to be the day’s main attraction for the village and even surrounding villages. Visitors always draw attention and festivities. Our first exposure to Solomon Island people and their culture was a joy. Smiling kids in colorful t-shirts, women with flowered dresses, and men with bettlenut stained red gums and teeth surrounded the performance area along with all of us. The traditional welcoming speech was given by the school master and then we were treated to a number of lively traditional dances accompanied by drumming rhythm on a section of old canoe. After the dances, people drifted away in various directions to visit with the locals, see the village and just stretch their legs. In the age of digital photography the local people were delighted to see instant snapshots of themselves or instant replays of the dancing. A walk along the beach was enjoyed by some where canoes lay waiting to transport their owners back to a village across the channel or serve as a play pen for children.
As the skies darkened with an impending rain shower, the National Geographic Endeavour moved out of Graciosa Bay toward the distant volcanic island of Tinakula. We arrived just as the last vestiges of light disappeared and the rain poured from the sky. But the bridge officers slowly approached the corner of the island and the rain lessened. Suddenly high on the slopes of the island there was a red hot glow. Then a spurt of hot lava and rock, which subsequently rolled down the slope in a streak of sparks. For the next 30 minutes we hung off the island at a short distance and watched as spots of activity started up the slope and then glowing hot rocks rolled down to the shoreline or even into the water. With that as a finale it was time to end the day with cocktails and recap. Yet another exciting and interesting day in Melanesia.
Coral and Anemone Fish. Canoes and Kastom (Custom). Welcoming smiles and a Violent Volcano.
Our port of entry into our third Melanesian country, Solomon Islands, was the small village of Lata on the island of Ndendo. Once we had the official word that the paperwork for our entrance was completed we set off to explore the reefs in a channel between this larger island and a smaller nearby island. Snorkelers were in the water along a section of reef that dropped steeply to the dark depths. But the platform was anchored at the edge so a few feet in one direction the water was too shallow for snorkeling or boats, except for the local dugouts which we attracted as curiosity items to a few local children. In the other direction from the platform the reef edge provided wonderful views of the amazing variety of marine life inhabiting the reef. For a few, the glass bottom boat was the mode of seeing into the underwater world and staying dry while enjoying it. Cruising slowly over the reef in what seemed like only a few inches of water provided a chance to see and learn about the ecology and biology of the coral and associated animals from ship’s naturalist, Richard White.
In the afternoon the tide had risen enough for the Zodiacs to transport us ashore to the very tip of the island. Sticks had been placed in the shallow waters near the beach to help direct the drivers to a landing site. Ashore we proved to be the day’s main attraction for the village and even surrounding villages. Visitors always draw attention and festivities. Our first exposure to Solomon Island people and their culture was a joy. Smiling kids in colorful t-shirts, women with flowered dresses, and men with bettlenut stained red gums and teeth surrounded the performance area along with all of us. The traditional welcoming speech was given by the school master and then we were treated to a number of lively traditional dances accompanied by drumming rhythm on a section of old canoe. After the dances, people drifted away in various directions to visit with the locals, see the village and just stretch their legs. In the age of digital photography the local people were delighted to see instant snapshots of themselves or instant replays of the dancing. A walk along the beach was enjoyed by some where canoes lay waiting to transport their owners back to a village across the channel or serve as a play pen for children.
As the skies darkened with an impending rain shower, the National Geographic Endeavour moved out of Graciosa Bay toward the distant volcanic island of Tinakula. We arrived just as the last vestiges of light disappeared and the rain poured from the sky. But the bridge officers slowly approached the corner of the island and the rain lessened. Suddenly high on the slopes of the island there was a red hot glow. Then a spurt of hot lava and rock, which subsequently rolled down the slope in a streak of sparks. For the next 30 minutes we hung off the island at a short distance and watched as spots of activity started up the slope and then glowing hot rocks rolled down to the shoreline or even into the water. With that as a finale it was time to end the day with cocktails and recap. Yet another exciting and interesting day in Melanesia.
