We had a splendid day today, beginning by casting off from the dock at Phnom Penh. Low clouds scudded above the buildings and the sun burned fiery orange through light smoke. Our morning activities got underway with guest speaker Jean Michel Fillipi, a linguist and historian from the University of Phnom Penh. Between his lecture and extended Q&A, much of the morning was devoted to learning more about the last 70 years of Cambodian history. His dynamic and exciting speaking really put us in the places he talked about and gave a wonderful framework with which to understand the places and people we encounter on our journey through Cambodia.

Meanwhile we cruised up the Tonle Sap River to the outlet of Tonle Sap Lake, one of the most fascinating natural features of the region. The wet season increases lake volume to mindboggling proportions, flooding the local region and bringing life to people, land, and wildlife. Once we left the city behind, we were able to see some of the first undeveloped riverside property of our trip, with scattered fishing boats and homes along the banks.

After lunch we had an entertaining photo session on smartphone photography and shortly thereafter anchored at the town of Kampong Chhnang (translated as “Pottery Embankment”). We disembarked the Jahan onto small local boats to head to shore, hopped into waiting vans, and drove 15 minutes out of town. We wound through beautiful fields, hills, forest, and countryside to a small village cooperative that makes a variety of tasty and practical items. We watched a very spry 64-year-old Cambodian man climb a palm tree to retrieve the watery liquid from the fruits used in making palm sugar. We got to taste the taffy-like sugar as well as the alcohol made from the palm sugar. Next we watched a woman take a chunk of raw clay and mold it into a pot, walking around and around the clay to shape it. Before returning to the ship we boarded our small boats and cruised alongside the floating homes of Kampong Chhnang, watching evening life unfold around us.

Once back aboard Jahan, we headed downstream as the sun set in a flaming orange sky among the palm trees. Dinner followed Recap and the night ended with a viewing of the Academy Award winning film The Killing Fields.