This morning we awoke to calm seas, calm enough to allow us to land at Steeple Jason for the first time in four years. This beautiful chain of islands stretches for 40 miles northwest and is one of the most scenic locations in the Falklands. The black-browed albatross – that’s why we are here.
This island is home to the largest colony of black-browed albatross in the world – over 170,000 breeding pairs! A colony that large was a wonder to behold. If you were brave enough to navigate the towering clumps of tussock grass you were rewarded with front row seats to a variety of behaviors. We saw parents feeding chicks, landings and take offs, nest building and even courtship by some of the late-coming younger birds.
Though the albatross colony was the main attraction, the Johnny Rooks, or striated caracaras, were not to be outshined. These gregarious raptors greeted us upon arrival and where on watch for any small misplaced object to steal. They flipped over our cones, inspected our bags, one even tried to run off with someone’s hat. Nothing was safe.
For our afternoon adventure we landed at Saunders Island. This island was leased for farming in the late 1800s and later purchased by Tony and David Pole-Evans in 1987. They still farm the island and are kind enough to allow visits to their beautiful beach. If it wasn’t 50 degrees with penguins scattered about, you would think you had landed on a tropical island. This long, white sand beach was being assaulted by massive breaking waves as the wind carried the spray back to sea, leaving long white trails. Several Commerson’s dolphins were playing in the surf and there was a constant flow of gentoo and Magellanic penguins coming and going. At the southeast end of the beach, as the land rises away from the sea, there was a colony of rock hopper penguins, making our penguin total seven species! This was truly a magical beach and a wonderful Falkland’s day.
