We started our day on Santa Cruz very early in the morning at one of the most globally iconic sites of conservation. The Charles Darwin Research Station CDRS and the Fausto Llerena Breeding Center is a place you cannot miss if you are in the Galapagos. Since the early 60s these facilities were carrying out the remarkable program to restore endangered populations of Galapagos land tortoise. The tortoise was threatened by introduced species and anthropological causes before the National Park was established. The first group of tortoises we spotted was the 1-4 years old with soft-shells which were enclosed in pens in order to protect them from introduced predators like feral cats and rats. The second group of tortoises we saw was the 5 years olds which will be released shortly in their natural habitat on different islands. The famous, and now deceased, Lonesome George and the alive and well Diego are important figures to mention during this visit in order to learn and to understand the endeavors to preserve endemic species in Galapagos.
After the CDRS, we visited El Trapiche Ecological Farm, a family farm which produces organic toasted coffee and moon-shine from sugar cane. The traditional processes developed by this local entrepreneurial family living on the highlands of Santa Cruz are good examples of artisanal methods to obtain products from raw materials and use them in sustainable ways. Fresh bananas, sugar cane chunks, “panela chunks”, toasted coffee beans, fresh cheese, and melaza are the organic products shared with our guests from the Ecological Farm.
Once we finished lunch, El Manzanillo Ranch on the highlands of Santa Cruz Island was waiting for us. Wild endemic giant tortoises from that island were wondering around this private property and crossing from one territory to another. The estimation is a population of approximately more than 300 tortoises along this area. They forage all year around and mate on the highlands from August to March and during the rest of the months, females walk kilometers down towards the low lands in order to lay their eggs. This is a perfect spot to enjoy the discussions of the naturalists about these amazing prehistoric creatures and taking photos up-close with them at one of the most fascinating places on earth.
Our long day finally came to an end. We enjoyed learning about the different programs on conservation and our time with the tortoises in wild. It was a nice contrast to the town of Puerto Ayora with the locals playing volleyball and selling food around at the Parque San Francisco. We experienced the full spectrum of life on the dynamic, inhabited island of Santa Cruz.