Prion Island and Salisbury Plain, 3/8/2022, National Geographic Explorer
Aboard the
National Geographic Explorer
Antarctica
This morning, we began our day’s activities with a Zodiac ride around Prion Island. Prion Island is in the Bay of Isles, most of which were named after local seabirds by naturalist Robert Cushman Murphy in 1912. Prion Island itself is of special significance since it is home to a few dozen pairs of nesting wandering albatrosses – the bird with the largest wingspan in the world! In addition, Prion Island has been a refuge for the endemic South Georgia pipit.
Our afternoon was spent at the spectacular Salisbury Plain king penguin colony. This colony is South Georgia’s second largest with up to 100,000 breeding pairs. We saw adults incubating eggs or protecting recently hatched chicks on their feet, “oakum boys” (the young penguins with brown down), and many moulting adults. The collective noun that comes to mind is a “chaos” of penguins! The cacophony of sounds, the pungent smell, and the visual overload assault the senses.
An experienced traveler, Michael has lived on several continents, including a year spent working as a naturalist and zoologist in Galápagos and three months in Kenya conducting a study of birds of prey. He is the author o f Galápagos: A Natural Histo...
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A storm system redirected National Geographic Explorer to dock in Ushuaia one day earlier than anticipated at the beginning of the trip. Our last day together was spent touring the countryside of Ushuaia via buses organized by our wonderful team of agents based in the area. These agents provided a day full of breathtaking landscapes and an assortment of weather patterns. The buses served as a comfortable transport to two different lakes, Lake Escondido and Lake Fagnano. Lake Escondido is also known as Hidden Lake. It earned this name by often being covered in a thick layer of fog that conceals its location. We were lucky the winds were strong enough to provide us with a view at the photo stop alongside the road. At Lake Fagnano, our guests were invited to stroll along the marsh to look for birds. After our visits to the lakes, we were escorted to the top of Ushuaia, giving us a great view for our lunch before returning to the ship. A great day of forest views, snow, and peat bogs.
It takes almost two full days to transit from South Georgia to
the Falkland Islands archipelago. Onboard National Geographic Explorer ,
this time can be occupied in many different ways. For some it was a time to
catch up on the thousands of images captured while exploring the sub-Antarctic
Island of South Georgia. While at South Georgia, we were so occupied with our
daily activities that many had not even peeked at what their photos had
captured. Most people were quite happy with their results, and anxious to see
what other guests had accomplished photographically. A full slate of shipboard presentations were also available, for
people to enjoy and enhance their learning about the areas through which we’re traveling. Others spent time on the Bridge, checking on our progress across the Scotia Sea. Some ventured out on deck to the bow, or the aft sundeck, to watch or photograph the seabirds passing by. All in all, it was a delightful day at sea. We’re looking forward
to the Falkland Islands ahead.
South Georgia is now far behind us as we make our way across the vast expanse of the Southern Ocean towards our next destination, the Falklands. The sky is grey, the sea is grey, but memories of our days in South Georgia blaze with colour. Today is a day for reflection on all we have seen and learned, and for preparation for the days to come. Our first presentation of the day was a thought-provoking account from geologist Michael Jackson on the scientific basis behind climate change. We learned about the pioneering experiments of early scientists that led towards a modern understanding of how and why climate is changing, and the critical role of the Polar Regions. National Geographic Explorer ploughed on. Soon, changing air and water temperatures in addition to looming fog told us that we were crossing the Convergence (or the Antarctic Polar Front), passing from the cold waters of the Southern Ocean to the slightly warmer conditions of the Southern Atlantic. Next, naturalist Madalena Patacho gave a sparkling presentation about ‘The Ocean.’ She took us from the very creation of the earth itself and its first oceans, to the 11,000-metre depth of the Mariana Trench, around the world’s swirling warm and cold currents, to the final opening of the Southern Ocean. All of this creates a massive, unrestricted transport of water in the Antarctic Circumpolar Current, which is so important for the concentration of wildlife that thrives in this region. National Geographic photographer Camille Seaman concluded with a surprising window into her passion for knitting, a skill originally dominated by men, from its origins in the Middle East to its spread throughout Europe in the Middle Ages. Knitting’s excellent qualities were much appreciated by the polar explorers of the Heroic Age and by sailors everywhere, as her images showed. The ship pressed onward throughout the day. At times, the ocean swell was quite impressive, but National Geographic Explorer handles it all comfortably. At evening recap, our screens in the lounge were bright with undersea specialist Brett Garner’s footage of gliding king penguins.
