This morning we awoke to more stunning scenery… it never gets old and never disappoints. After breakfast we split into two activity groups – Zodiac cruises and hiking. The Zodiac cruises were around some of the most magnificent icebergs we have seen yet. Towering above us were all shapes and sizes. Some had serpentine shapes, others were tall like spires. No two pieces alike, all beautiful to photograph with the dark sky behind them. Among the ice, on the lower and flatter pieces were seals. We saw numerous crabeater seals as well as some very close looks at a leopard seal. None of them seemed to notice us, they were all busy with their day… sleeping.
After the ice tours, we went ashore for a hike to the top of Pleneau Island. Gentoos nest there in numerous small groups among rock outcroppings. After Doug’s recap last night we were acutely aware of the skuas and their penchant for dining on penguin chicks. We gathered on the edge of one rookery to cheer the penguins on as they drove the skuas away from their nests and protected their young chicks. Although some among us were ready to join Doug’s Skua Support Society and were rooting for the skuas instead. Today, in that small arena, the penguins won. But there will be many more encounters before the nesting season is over.
This afternoon we visited the historic British Base “A” at Port Lockroy. One highlight of this landing was visiting the base that has been restored and set up as it was when it was left in 1962. It was fun to walk back in history and get a glimpse of life in Antarctica 50 years ago. In the building we saw the radio room with a still operational 1944 radio receiver (that had today’s BBC broadcast tuned in), the lounge complete with old magazines, newspapers and gramophone, as well as the living areas and kitchen. When we looked inside their cabinets to see the food supplies (also left from 1960’s) we were happier than ever for our fine cuisine aboard the National Geographic Explorer. Besides the museum, we found a modern addition – the post office and gift shop. Many letters were mailed to friends at home, though since the mail goes to England first, we will certainly get home before them.
The gentoo penguins, skuas and sheathbills that live on the island do not let a building get in the way of their nesting season. Indeed, some seem to prefer it. Penguins were nesting beside the door, and all along the edges of the building. Perhaps having a building on one side gives them an advantage over the ever present and ever watchful skuas.
