Dawn broke clear, with promises of sunshine and an ever-changing array of fair weather clouds lofted high above. This welcome transformation from yesterday’s fog and drizzle found our pre-breakfast bear seekers smiling as they approached National Geographic Sea Bird’s fantail to board the expedition landing craft. Pavlof Harbor is a small and scenic bay on Chichagof Island and home to well-established salmon runs in the local stream. Anadromous fish, adult salmon return from a year or more in the open ocean to the specific river in which they were born to spawn. Brown bears recognize Pavlof Falls and estuary as excellent places to find a bounty of salmon; bald eagles, seabirds, and curious visitors alike arrive in the same season to observe or capitalize on the bears’ messy eating habits. ]
In two rounds of expedition lancing craft excursions, we had a wonderful time watching a sow teach her year-old cubs to track and pounce upon fish making their way upstream, and others leisurely bask in or swim across the waterfall. Once back aboard, Carlos described the characteristics, life history, and behaviors of these amazing animals, adding a biologist’s perspective to our morning bear viewing.
Southbound for Saook Bay through Chatham Strait, our trusty eyes on the bow spotted a group of humpback whales. As they were seemingly practicing for the synchronized swimming events at the ongoing Olympic Games, we abandoned our existing afternoon plans. A valuable life lesson: when beautiful opportunities present themselves, you have to be flexible. At least eight in number, the whales surrounded the ship both near and far; with bubble nets and coordinated lunges they gorged on krill, a tiny shrimp-like crustacean that comprises a substantial part of their summer diet. We spent hours on the bow, enjoying the sunshine, mountain views and enthralling whale activity.
Now making our final passage, Sea Bird transits the twists and turns of Peril Strait, carefully timing the tide and current. As dusk and our last moments together approach, these narrow channels bring the immense and dynamic landscapes of Southeast Alaska within reach once more, reminding us of all we’ve seen, explored and experienced in the past week.
