The National Geographic Sea Bird slipped through the calm sea near Isla Monserrat as the first light spilled across the escarpment of the Sierra de la Giganta. The excited announcement of a blue whale ahead interrupted all other pre-breakfast activities. We watched this sleek, streamlined creature long enough so that everyone could have plenty of opportunities to see the tall spout, blue-gray mottled back, and the insignificant dorsal fin that seemed inconsistent with the immensity of the whale. What a fine start to the voyage! A group of common dolphins splashed nearby, and several raced into position beneath the bow where they could take advantage of the pressure wave to get a free push. As the morning progressed, at least six other blue whales rose in the distance. Eventually it was time to leave and continue towards our afternoon destination. Along the way, there was a chance to watch an informative presentation on geology.
Isla Santa Catalina is a gem of an island, and we spent the entire afternoon here. Snorkelers donned wetsuits and masks and then entered the undersea world of glittering fish and colorful sea stars that clung to the rocks. Electric-blue damselfish investigated the crevices and porcupinefish sculled purposefully past schools of sergeant majors as we enjoyed our first undersea outing in the Sea of Cortez.
On shore, towering cardon cacti, similar to the more familiar saguaros found farther north, formed a dramatic backdrop for the endemic giant barrel cacti and smaller plants. Gila and ladder-backed woodpeckers, ash-throated flycatchers, and a loggerhead shrike (see photo) studied us with their sharp eyes. Long hikers strode through spiny shrubs to ascend to the higher reaches of the island for expansive views far below. Others remained on more level terrain with time to learn more about photography and the natural history of the area.
After a very full and busy day of whale watching, snorkeling, and hiking, we gathered in the lounge. We exchanged stories and mingled with our new shipmates over cocktails and dinner before retreating to our staterooms for the night as the moonlight danced on the water around us.
