How many faces can a day reveal? Today was one of marked contrasts that allowed us a look at Antarctica’s potential for mood swings.
High ceiling with moderate winds. Zero precipitation:
The morning began like many in the Antarctic Peninsula region with steely grey skies, a moderate breeze, and glaciated mountains dripping ice into the sea in all directions. We steamed south under these conditions passing through the geologic bottleneck known as the Lemaire Channel just before breakfast. Neck-straining views bookended us to the east and west as we drifted only a few meters beneath 4-5 thousand foot peaks. Emerging on the southern end of the channel the forecasted winds began to build and the sea began to stir.
High ceiling with building winds. Zero Precipitation:
As we rounded the Lemaire Channel’s western flank, Booth Island, we could see our landing site and the scattered colonies of gentoo, adelie, and chinstrap penguins awaiting us there. Also along the island’s crest was a large stone cairn erected by the 1903-1904 French Charcot expedition as a navigational aid. While the cairn guided us towards land the winds tried to keep us at bay. The two hours we hoped for ashore turned into one as the winds built to 40 knot gusts. With wind screeching through our ears the power of this passing storm was not only audible but palpable. One wind battered hour on shore and our adrenaline pumped shore-goers stumbled their way back to the landing.
Low ceiling with gale force winds. Heavy Snowfall:
After conceding our landing to the wind we pulled anchor and headed north again in search of shelter. En route to our hiding place the winds reached max velocity at 45 knots and visibility dropped to near zero.
Low ceiling with zero wind. Heavy snowfall.
Then, just like that, we reached Paradise Harbour and, as the name implies, things started turning our way. In the shelter of the harbour’s amphitheater of mountains the wind dropped to nil, as if no storm were raging on the mountains windward side. The rest of the afternoon was spent under a thickening blanket of snow as the winds remained at bay but the snow continued heavier and heavier. Weaving zodiacs amongst freshly snow covered icebergs and a steadily more opaque looking ocean surface we came across brown skuas, blue-eyed shags, crabeater and leopard seals and the occasional minke whale.
With such a meteorological spectrum behind us our day was thoroughly complete, allowing us time to reflect on the many moody faces of the Antarctic Peninsula.
