What a day it was in Glacier Bay National Park! Waking up at the face of Johns Hopkins Glacier, we are delighted by the sight and sound of this exquisite tidewater glacier. Harbor seals dot the bergy bits of ice around our vessel. Dramatic rocky cliffs of igneous and metamorphic rock tower above us, capped by peaks of white. From upper bay to lower, we are treated with a landscape that has undergone an ecological makeover, 250 years in the making. By the time we reach Bartlett Cove, we see a lush rainforest engulfing a rustic lodge and ranger station. Sea otters, sea lions, and sea birds are familiar companions, and we are treated to a coastline briming with coastal brown bears, and a tawny wolf.