Dundas Bay

According to the daily program, our activities were not slated to start until after breakfast. A brown bear, a moose, a black bear, and a sea otter had other ideas for our morning plans, however. In the early morning light, the call came from the bow that wildlife had been spotted. As the Sea Lion slowly cruised through the calm waters of Dundas Bay, a black bear was seen feeding. Before we could begin our own feeding at breakfast, an interesting scenario played out along the shore – a brown bear chased a moose! We continued cruising, only to spot a sea otter just a few yards off the bow. The bobbing otter appeared just as interested in us as we were in it. While calmly floating along, it curiously glanced again and again at the strange forms peering at it from above. As it twisted and swirled in the water, its movements could only be described as liquid. At first glance, the otter simply seemed a cute furry animal, but as it glided alongside the ship, we were able to distinguish the features that are essential to its survival in a marine environment. Even while watching us, the otter never broke its ongoing routine of grooming and cleaning its dense pelt. We were able to see its sharp teeth (see photo) – tools that are important when ones meals are often encrusted by hard shells.

After breakfast, we cruised through the narrow waterway know as Inian Pass. We soon came to George Island where the deck crew made quick work of anchoring. Kayaks were launched, Zodiacs cruised, and boots were muddied as we set out exploring the island. Those who opted for the long hike learned of the island’s brief military history during World War II. Several playful sea lions were glimpsed cavorting in the waves by the kayakers and Zodiac cruisers.

As the skies cleared and the sun’s rays broke through the gray, we were treated to fantastic views of the Fairweather mountain range. The range is aptly named, due to the fact that one can only see them on days with clear skies. Our luck lasted throughout the afternoon, allowing us unlimited viewing of the mountains that are ninety miles away.

Following lunch, the Sea Lion made a quick detour into the tiny fishing village of Elfin Cove. This community has a year round population of a few dozen, but grows to many times that during the summer fishing season. Long-time resident Mary Jo Lord-Wild came aboard to talk to us about living in such a unique setting – there are no roads in Elfin Cove, only boardwalk and pathways along the docks and shore. We had a chance to stroll along these boardwalks, enjoying the sunshine and the hospitality of the Elfin Cove residents.

As the afternoon sun turned golden, we made way for Pt. Adolphus, a known humpback whale feeding ground. Many of us were drawn to the bow once more, observing large groups of common murres, black–legged kittiwakes, and even a few bald eagles soaring and swooping, feeding on fish just below the surface. A Dall’s porpoise darted around the ship, also giving intense chase to the fish close to the surface. At last a humpback was spotted, and what looks it gave us! Time and time again it would surge from below, its enormous throat pleats expanding as it gulped huge amounts of fish. Even the stiff wind blowing across the bow could not deter us from taking in the feeding frenzy all around us. With the sun slipping lower in the sky, we headed north up Icy Strait, setting our course for tomorrow’s adventures in Glacier Bay National Park. Our last views were perhaps the most glorious of an already visually packed day – the sun setting behind the Fairweather Range, highlighting the dramatic peaks in vivid pinks, oranges, and golds.