Extraordinary. Beyond extraordinary.

So, this is Alaska. Not in one’s wildest dreams could one have imagined a day like today. To begin with, who gets up at five in the morning on the first day of their vacation? Yes, it was as bright as mid-day with blue skies and sunshine. The water had a satin sheen that revealed any motion upon or within it. Nothing could hide from our inquiring eyes. Thus it was hardly surprising that only minutes elapsed from when the first foot was placed upon the deck until the cry of “whale” rang out. The tall knife-like dorsal fin of an adult male killer whale slowly rose from the sea tantalizing us to creep closer. He was not alone. A tiny baby with peach colored patches frolicked and followed close to its mother. Four more whales of various ages completed the group. What would they do when they noticed the presence of a larger marine mammal in their midst? Would the lone humpback that appeared beneath a misty blow turn and run, knowing it was on a collision course with the top predator of the sea? Have we captured you with the sense of suspense that was in our minds? Amazingly both species seemed to ignore the other. Feeling faint from the lack of food we finally said goodbye and continued on our way with the intent of eating breakfast and taking care of the business of drills and educational pursuits.

But Alaska doesn’t let one follow through with plans or good intentions. Two black bears materialized on the beach of Kupreanof Island. Stealthily we crept forward, silence reigning on the ship. Our presence was ignored while rocks were turned and barnacles slurped until their appetites for intertidal tidbits were satisfied.

Our mid-morning feast was of the sensory kind, the excitement almost exhausting. Humpback whales were introduced to us quite like the characters in a drama. First there were the tall and hanging blows, a signal that they were there, appearing at the surface. The dark and lumpy rostrums pushed the water forward as if to make room for the back and following dorsal fin. Two, three, now eight, then sixteen or more individuals paraded past presenting their patterned flukes for identification. Knowing who the performers were was only preparation for what was to follow for their behavior changed from individual pursuits to social cooperative feeding. A hydrophone eavesdropped in on their “conversations.” We soon learned the language and were able to predict when to watch for bubbles and dancing fish trying to fly from charging leviathan maws. The climax, an eruption of scrambled body parts that rapidly became individuals once again busily straining schooling herring from sea water soup. Over and over for hours the action continued until our stomachs drew us away again.

Is there breath enough to finish telling about the day? Briefly, we kayaked, hiked and swam in Halleck Harbor basking in the warm sunshine.