Luganville (Santo), Espiritu Santo Island, Vanuatu
After a short trip from North Ambrym, we had a silent night until at 6:30am, when it was time to restart the engines and move into the dock at Luganville, also known as Santo. Vanuatu’s second town, it was for a short time home to about a half a million US service personnel in World War II. At last, sunshine arrives, and the birding party is soon away with Richard, Mike and Art on an all-day trip. For the rest of us, a leisurely Historical Tour takes us first to the US Base Hospital. There, 46 cement pads are all that today indicate its massive size and importance to the Solomons campaign in the north, in addition to providing medical care for the war-free zone of what was then still New Hebrides, a British-French condominium. The locals, from nearby Beterih village, are immigrants from nearby Malakula Island, and they entertain us first with a local stringband. We next enter a darkened hut to inspect some of the remnants found on the site (ammunition and the ubiquitous Coke bottles included), before being directed to a nearby dancing ground, where huge vertical slitgongs with painted faces dominate one side. These are played by nambas-clad drummers as a troupe of young male dancers enter in single file and circle the small space, allowing everyone opportunities for close range photography. They impress with their athleticism and the noisy rhythm from clusters of large brown seed-maracas on their ankles as they stamp their feet. It was an exciting interlude and much appreciated by our circle of spectators.
Our next stop is in the forest, at the crash site of a B-17 bomber, stricken by Japanese warplanes during its flight back from the Solomons, and failed to make it to the giant airfield here by the shortest of distances. The two pilots, we are told, bailed out and survived. We inspect the scattered pieces, including a mostly intact wing with the US encircled blue star emblem still clearly visible. Our next and final stop, which includes delicious local fruit as refreshments and a howling 50 knot south-easterly, is Million Dollar Point, where pieces of the WWII material are still visible at low tide. A massive amount of machinery, vehicles, etc. was offered to the colonial authorities as the victorious Allies prepared to quit the New Hebrides at war’s end, but the French and British authorities baulked at the price, no doubt thinking that the Americans would lower the sum demanded. Instead, in a move that would have outraged the colonials, they bulldozed the lot into the ocean, hence the name, which is a gross understatement in terms of the value of the destroyed material. However, as a result of many close friendships between US servicemen and local New Hebrideans, many a gate was left unlocked at night… and a great deal of stuff, including many Jeeps, found its way onto all the surrounding islands!
We arrive back at the ship, still in sunshine, and have time for a power nap before lunch. Once replete, we again board our vehicles for a half-hour or so drive up to the small village of Nerrgar, another small immigrant community, with tantalising glimpses of the Sarakata River just to our right. It is set among lovely plantations of coconuts and many grazing cattle, and most of its inhabitants are from the Banks Islands to the north. After a flower greeting, we pause at the tomb of the Chief of Nerrgar, who died in 2001, and are introduced to his widow Victoria by their daughter Violet, with son and heir apparent Richard nearby. We see a dyeing and basket-weaving group demonstrating their considerable skills, visit a kitchen to see the earth oven, stop at the kava hut to watch it being prepared and served to those with a yen to try Vanuatu’s national drink – a powerful brew indeed – then a group of women and children in traditional dress leads us to the lovely dance ground, where men’s drumming and then a women’s choir (and later stringband) welcome us. Kastom dancing, featuring performances by some of the visitors who are urged to join in, alternates with string-band and singing, and we are invited to sample a delicious selection of fruits in a nearby hut. It was a low-key and relaxing time on a sunny afternoon in a beautiful setting, before we set out back down to town. There, the produce market beckons for many, followed by a walk through town for those eager to stretch their legs before reboarding the Endeavour. In the early evening, a lively local string-band comes on board to entertain us on the stern deck, where, in balmy conditions, some of us are moved to dance but most are content to relax and take their tropical punch from a whole coconut via a straw. Our local divers contribute to recap with photos of the liner, President Coolidge, and an account of its sinking in this harbour with over 5000 troops on board, after hitting US-laid mines close to shore. Remarkably, only two deaths resulted, and the submerged wreck, lying between 60 and 210 feet beneath the surface, is now considered one of the best dives anywhere, as some of our number are now prepared to attest. The chance to eat outdoors in perfect conditions is most welcome, and the mood is jovial as the fine food and wine make for a fitting ending to a great day.
After a short trip from North Ambrym, we had a silent night until at 6:30am, when it was time to restart the engines and move into the dock at Luganville, also known as Santo. Vanuatu’s second town, it was for a short time home to about a half a million US service personnel in World War II. At last, sunshine arrives, and the birding party is soon away with Richard, Mike and Art on an all-day trip. For the rest of us, a leisurely Historical Tour takes us first to the US Base Hospital. There, 46 cement pads are all that today indicate its massive size and importance to the Solomons campaign in the north, in addition to providing medical care for the war-free zone of what was then still New Hebrides, a British-French condominium. The locals, from nearby Beterih village, are immigrants from nearby Malakula Island, and they entertain us first with a local stringband. We next enter a darkened hut to inspect some of the remnants found on the site (ammunition and the ubiquitous Coke bottles included), before being directed to a nearby dancing ground, where huge vertical slitgongs with painted faces dominate one side. These are played by nambas-clad drummers as a troupe of young male dancers enter in single file and circle the small space, allowing everyone opportunities for close range photography. They impress with their athleticism and the noisy rhythm from clusters of large brown seed-maracas on their ankles as they stamp their feet. It was an exciting interlude and much appreciated by our circle of spectators.
Our next stop is in the forest, at the crash site of a B-17 bomber, stricken by Japanese warplanes during its flight back from the Solomons, and failed to make it to the giant airfield here by the shortest of distances. The two pilots, we are told, bailed out and survived. We inspect the scattered pieces, including a mostly intact wing with the US encircled blue star emblem still clearly visible. Our next and final stop, which includes delicious local fruit as refreshments and a howling 50 knot south-easterly, is Million Dollar Point, where pieces of the WWII material are still visible at low tide. A massive amount of machinery, vehicles, etc. was offered to the colonial authorities as the victorious Allies prepared to quit the New Hebrides at war’s end, but the French and British authorities baulked at the price, no doubt thinking that the Americans would lower the sum demanded. Instead, in a move that would have outraged the colonials, they bulldozed the lot into the ocean, hence the name, which is a gross understatement in terms of the value of the destroyed material. However, as a result of many close friendships between US servicemen and local New Hebrideans, many a gate was left unlocked at night… and a great deal of stuff, including many Jeeps, found its way onto all the surrounding islands!
We arrive back at the ship, still in sunshine, and have time for a power nap before lunch. Once replete, we again board our vehicles for a half-hour or so drive up to the small village of Nerrgar, another small immigrant community, with tantalising glimpses of the Sarakata River just to our right. It is set among lovely plantations of coconuts and many grazing cattle, and most of its inhabitants are from the Banks Islands to the north. After a flower greeting, we pause at the tomb of the Chief of Nerrgar, who died in 2001, and are introduced to his widow Victoria by their daughter Violet, with son and heir apparent Richard nearby. We see a dyeing and basket-weaving group demonstrating their considerable skills, visit a kitchen to see the earth oven, stop at the kava hut to watch it being prepared and served to those with a yen to try Vanuatu’s national drink – a powerful brew indeed – then a group of women and children in traditional dress leads us to the lovely dance ground, where men’s drumming and then a women’s choir (and later stringband) welcome us. Kastom dancing, featuring performances by some of the visitors who are urged to join in, alternates with string-band and singing, and we are invited to sample a delicious selection of fruits in a nearby hut. It was a low-key and relaxing time on a sunny afternoon in a beautiful setting, before we set out back down to town. There, the produce market beckons for many, followed by a walk through town for those eager to stretch their legs before reboarding the Endeavour. In the early evening, a lively local string-band comes on board to entertain us on the stern deck, where, in balmy conditions, some of us are moved to dance but most are content to relax and take their tropical punch from a whole coconut via a straw. Our local divers contribute to recap with photos of the liner, President Coolidge, and an account of its sinking in this harbour with over 5000 troops on board, after hitting US-laid mines close to shore. Remarkably, only two deaths resulted, and the submerged wreck, lying between 60 and 210 feet beneath the surface, is now considered one of the best dives anywhere, as some of our number are now prepared to attest. The chance to eat outdoors in perfect conditions is most welcome, and the mood is jovial as the fine food and wine make for a fitting ending to a great day.
