The Southern Lau Islands of Fiji
Most of the plants and animals of the Pacific Islands have spread from a center of biodiversity centered around Indonesia. Hence, as we move from east to west we come closer to the center of radiation, and the diversity of life increases both above and below the surface of the water. Yesterday we left Tonga and entered the waters of Fiji, in search of officialdom. Having failed to connect with our expected Fijian officials in Nuku’alofa, Tonga, we headed for the Southern Lau group of islands and an expected rendezvous on the island of Lakeba, but there we found that the plane carrying the officials had turned back due to bad weather.
We proceeded to the nearby island of Aiwa, a low coral island surrounded by a barrier reef that encloses a pale blue-green lagoon. While underway to Aiwa, Naturalist Art Cooley presented evidence for changes in the earth’s climate system, and led a discussion focusing on the questions: should we be concerned and, if so, what can and should we do about it. It was a lively but civil exchange of views and ideas. At Aiwa we left the ship in sunny and calm weather for water sports: scuba diving, snorkeling, and glass-bottom boat tours over a gentle slope from deeper water to the outer edge of the reef. The water was crystal clear, giving us excellent visibility. The corals were particularly striking, appearing to this observer to be recovering from some past event. Perhaps it was an outbreak of crown-of-thorns sea stars that caused large-scale mortality. The coral heads were mostly small, but diverse, healthy, and colorful – a veritable rock garden - and supporting a diverse population of reef fish. At the same time, our Captain left the ship in search of fish of another sort. He returned with the large wahoo shown here as it was passed to the care of our Head Chef Michael Westelius. It appeared on our evening buffet table in the form of wahoo sashimi and grilled steaks.
We moved on, in search of a possible island landing, but an exploration of the island of Vanua Balavu found no passable entry through the reef. The officers on the bridge saw dark skies ahead; we were headed into a South Pacific squall. Seemingly in an instant, we passed from relatively calm seas into fifty-knot winds. Thank goodness for the stabilizers on the good ship National Geographic Endeavour! An earlier Endeavour, under the command of Lieutenant James Cook, had no such advantage as she plied the South Seas in search of the illusive Southern continent, Terra Australis Incognita.
Most of the plants and animals of the Pacific Islands have spread from a center of biodiversity centered around Indonesia. Hence, as we move from east to west we come closer to the center of radiation, and the diversity of life increases both above and below the surface of the water. Yesterday we left Tonga and entered the waters of Fiji, in search of officialdom. Having failed to connect with our expected Fijian officials in Nuku’alofa, Tonga, we headed for the Southern Lau group of islands and an expected rendezvous on the island of Lakeba, but there we found that the plane carrying the officials had turned back due to bad weather.
We proceeded to the nearby island of Aiwa, a low coral island surrounded by a barrier reef that encloses a pale blue-green lagoon. While underway to Aiwa, Naturalist Art Cooley presented evidence for changes in the earth’s climate system, and led a discussion focusing on the questions: should we be concerned and, if so, what can and should we do about it. It was a lively but civil exchange of views and ideas. At Aiwa we left the ship in sunny and calm weather for water sports: scuba diving, snorkeling, and glass-bottom boat tours over a gentle slope from deeper water to the outer edge of the reef. The water was crystal clear, giving us excellent visibility. The corals were particularly striking, appearing to this observer to be recovering from some past event. Perhaps it was an outbreak of crown-of-thorns sea stars that caused large-scale mortality. The coral heads were mostly small, but diverse, healthy, and colorful – a veritable rock garden - and supporting a diverse population of reef fish. At the same time, our Captain left the ship in search of fish of another sort. He returned with the large wahoo shown here as it was passed to the care of our Head Chef Michael Westelius. It appeared on our evening buffet table in the form of wahoo sashimi and grilled steaks.
We moved on, in search of a possible island landing, but an exploration of the island of Vanua Balavu found no passable entry through the reef. The officers on the bridge saw dark skies ahead; we were headed into a South Pacific squall. Seemingly in an instant, we passed from relatively calm seas into fifty-knot winds. Thank goodness for the stabilizers on the good ship National Geographic Endeavour! An earlier Endeavour, under the command of Lieutenant James Cook, had no such advantage as she plied the South Seas in search of the illusive Southern continent, Terra Australis Incognita.
