Vava’u, Tonga

Since the beginning of this journey in Rarotonga one week ago, we have seen humpback whales on most days, sometimes distantly, at other times frolicking close to the bow of the ship. It is clear that it is currently humpback whale season and Tonga is one of the best places in the world to see them.

A typical view of a whale is of the blow and dorsal fin of the animal as it rises to breathe. It’s a little like looking at an iceberg – the majority remains below the surface and unseen. Today, some of us had a rare opportunity to take the whale watching experience to another level by actually getting into the water and snorkelling with humpbacks. Tonga has a regulated whale watching industry which allows for a tightly controlled programme of swimming with the whales. We joined a registered boat and headed out in search of the whales. After a briefing by our local guide, we located a female with a newborn calf and entered the water in groups of four to try to get a better look.

The visibility was excellent, typical of the area, and we were adrift in ultramarine. Then, out of the blue, shapes materialized and defined themselves as two whales. As we floated in awe, the mother and calf swam past us, the calf above the mother, propelled by apparently lazy but powerful strokes of the huge flukes with the elongated pectoral flippers held out as stabilisers. Almost as quickly as they appeared they vanished back into the blue, leaving the watchers exhilarated by their short but intense experience.

Meanwhile those not in the water with whales enjoyed the morning exploring the small and friendly town of Neiafu, followed by an afternoon of swimming and relaxing on the idyllic beach of Nuku Island. Tomorrow, our exploration of Tonga will continue with a visit to the capital, Nuku’alofa.