Northern Isabela & Fernandina
Dawn found us rounding the northern coast of the large, seahorse-shaped island of Isabela. This is the richest and the coolest of the marine realms of Galápagos, and we could surmise that the water temps were low, because a dense fog enveloped the ship in the early morning hours, making it impossible for us to spot marine mammals. The morning was fresh and it was gorgeous on deck, to chat and sip coffee, and those who wished to got a chance to sleep in.
We crossed the equator line with fanfare: a long, loud blast from the ship’s whistle and cheering from the crowded bridge. Those who had been but pollywogs (those who've never crossed the equator at sea), were now officially baptized “Galápagos shellbacks!” After Captain Pablo Garces ordered the anchor dropped, the crew lowered our fleet of floating black limos and we headed off on a “panga ride” along the spectacular coast line of Punta Vicente Roca. We watched fur seals leap and splash, one overly curious sea lion escorted a panga for a half hour, there were floating sea turtles, soaring blue-footed boobies, hoards of basking marine iguanas and several huge Pacific sunfish or mola molas.
We snorkeled with sea turtles, king angel fish, and razor fish, and when we headed for lunch and an extravagant, typical Ecuadorian buffet, we were ready to do the meal justice. Perfectly timed, Naturalist Pato and Second Mate Byron spotted a pod of common dolphins off our bow, just as most of us were full and reluctantly leaving the dining room. We followed the dolphin as they leapt and surged across our bow, and then continued on to our afternoon anchorage off Punta Espinosa, Fernandina.
What a surprisingly rich, natural setting the Punta turned out to be! From a distance the imposing jet black, and jagged, lava flows of Fernandina seem lifeless. But they are anything but! We saw perhaps even more marine iguanas this afternoon than we really needed to; they were sprawled and piled all along the trail. Dark lava lizards darted among them catching flies. Flightless cormorants were nesting, tending their eggs and chicks. We spotted our first Galápagos hawk, a buteo like the red-tails and red-shoulders in the US but here they feed on carrion and live prey. A huge, loud beach master chased away his smaller competitors. It was yet another outstanding afternoon.
Dawn found us rounding the northern coast of the large, seahorse-shaped island of Isabela. This is the richest and the coolest of the marine realms of Galápagos, and we could surmise that the water temps were low, because a dense fog enveloped the ship in the early morning hours, making it impossible for us to spot marine mammals. The morning was fresh and it was gorgeous on deck, to chat and sip coffee, and those who wished to got a chance to sleep in.
We crossed the equator line with fanfare: a long, loud blast from the ship’s whistle and cheering from the crowded bridge. Those who had been but pollywogs (those who've never crossed the equator at sea), were now officially baptized “Galápagos shellbacks!” After Captain Pablo Garces ordered the anchor dropped, the crew lowered our fleet of floating black limos and we headed off on a “panga ride” along the spectacular coast line of Punta Vicente Roca. We watched fur seals leap and splash, one overly curious sea lion escorted a panga for a half hour, there were floating sea turtles, soaring blue-footed boobies, hoards of basking marine iguanas and several huge Pacific sunfish or mola molas.
We snorkeled with sea turtles, king angel fish, and razor fish, and when we headed for lunch and an extravagant, typical Ecuadorian buffet, we were ready to do the meal justice. Perfectly timed, Naturalist Pato and Second Mate Byron spotted a pod of common dolphins off our bow, just as most of us were full and reluctantly leaving the dining room. We followed the dolphin as they leapt and surged across our bow, and then continued on to our afternoon anchorage off Punta Espinosa, Fernandina.
What a surprisingly rich, natural setting the Punta turned out to be! From a distance the imposing jet black, and jagged, lava flows of Fernandina seem lifeless. But they are anything but! We saw perhaps even more marine iguanas this afternoon than we really needed to; they were sprawled and piled all along the trail. Dark lava lizards darted among them catching flies. Flightless cormorants were nesting, tending their eggs and chicks. We spotted our first Galápagos hawk, a buteo like the red-tails and red-shoulders in the US but here they feed on carrion and live prey. A huge, loud beach master chased away his smaller competitors. It was yet another outstanding afternoon.
