Sierra Negra and Villamil, Southern Isabela Island

This evening many of us have pleasantly tired leg muscles and for once we deserve the fabulous dinner that the Islander chefs have spent the afternoon creating for us to delight in. Most of us chose to hike up the slopes of Sierra Negra volcano; we could go further and faster on an eight mile hike or up to the rim and along it awhile for a walk of about three miles round trip. Those guests who opted to stay on the ship or around the port of Villamil, relaxed and read or took a Zodiac ride and then a taxi to the outskirts of the town where they viewed the sadly impressive “Wall of Tears” which was build in the 1940’s by prisoners.

The two hiking groups had all boarded pick-up taxis and were on our way up the flanks of the volcano by shortly after 8:00 a.m. Sparse dry zone vegetation changed into transition zone trees and finally into the lush greenery of the highlands. We drove in a cloud of misty garua and the truck drivers spun wheels and shifted into four wheel drive to get through deep muddy ditches and puddles on the road. Luckily only one of the seven trucks got stuck in the mud, and only for a short time.

Today we tried out a brand new “hiker’s only” trail, and we were all extremely pleased with the experience. The new path climbed steeply but we traversed on grass and between walls of dense vegetation. The birding was fantastic: we found many fearless ground, tree, woodpecker and warbler finches, along with colorful yellow warblers and curious endemic broad-billed flycatchers. There were at least a half dozen species of ferns, two species of the endemic Darwin’s daisy and many small flowering plants.

Our view of the caldera was only partial and sporadic due to the thick garua clouds, but at times we could see the caldera floor and the jet black lava flows that were so recently spread out during the eruption last October. Sure it would have been great to get a glimpse of the entire caldera; on the other hand, the cool garua clouds made for very comfortable hiking and bird watching conditions.

In the afternoon, following lunch and siesta, most of us visited the tortoise breeding center run by the Galápagos National Park. Some walked out to the beach on a boardwalk, others shopped in the OMAI fishermen’s wive's store and we gathered later on the beach for volleyball, drinks and enthusiastic chatter. Another great day in paradise….