Lemaire Channel
Here is one of the highlights of almost every Antarctic cruise -– the Lemaire Channel. Charts show it as a narrow seaway between Antarctic Peninsula and a line of steep, ice-covered islands, handy for shipping because of its depth: the biggest ships that have visited Antarctica have sailed Lemaire Channel safely, saving a wide detour to the west. Geologically it marks a fault line, widened and deepened by glacial action in the past. Whales, seals and penguins use it; we met and overtook a small pod of orcas (killer whales), and noted the penguin colonies on its steep cliff flanks.
On a clear sunny day Lemaire Channel is staggeringly beautiful. Dark rocks tower on either side, alternating and trimmed with blue-white glaciers; the sea glistens and sparkles, reflecting an azure sky. Today was overcast, windy and cold. The sheer cliff and hanging glaciers disappeared into cloud not far above mast height; the sea was pewter-grey. Probably the first to negotiate the channel this season, Endeavour pressed through loose pack ice, shuffling the snow-covered floes aside and leaving them rocking in her wake. At the south end we encountered fast ice – a layer 3 ft thick, formed during the winter and only slightly softened by spring warming, still attached to the land. Should we press on? Not worth it: we are looking for a sheltered spot to launch the kayaks, and we certainly won’t find it here.
Here is one of the highlights of almost every Antarctic cruise -– the Lemaire Channel. Charts show it as a narrow seaway between Antarctic Peninsula and a line of steep, ice-covered islands, handy for shipping because of its depth: the biggest ships that have visited Antarctica have sailed Lemaire Channel safely, saving a wide detour to the west. Geologically it marks a fault line, widened and deepened by glacial action in the past. Whales, seals and penguins use it; we met and overtook a small pod of orcas (killer whales), and noted the penguin colonies on its steep cliff flanks.
On a clear sunny day Lemaire Channel is staggeringly beautiful. Dark rocks tower on either side, alternating and trimmed with blue-white glaciers; the sea glistens and sparkles, reflecting an azure sky. Today was overcast, windy and cold. The sheer cliff and hanging glaciers disappeared into cloud not far above mast height; the sea was pewter-grey. Probably the first to negotiate the channel this season, Endeavour pressed through loose pack ice, shuffling the snow-covered floes aside and leaving them rocking in her wake. At the south end we encountered fast ice – a layer 3 ft thick, formed during the winter and only slightly softened by spring warming, still attached to the land. Should we press on? Not worth it: we are looking for a sheltered spot to launch the kayaks, and we certainly won’t find it here.
