What an amazing day! Awakened at dawn, we ate breakfast then went for a Zodiac ride to the tiny harbor of Vale de Cavaleiros on the volcano island of Fogo. Boarding our caravan of minibuses we circled uphill through lush countryside towards the 9281-foot high, black cone of Pico de Fogo. After a few pauses to capture dramatic photos of the scenery, we entered the Cha das Caldeiras — the plain of craters. Welcomed by a cheerful group of local musicians, we marveled at the fertility of the crater floor. We found small groves of apple trees bearing both fruit and blossoms and learned that they produce two harvests a year.
We visited the Pousada or rest house, for a snack, then sampled the product of the local winery. "I think they have a winner" remarked one of our wine buffs, in admiration. The hardy and determined folk of the crater, some 800 families, had defied their government to return to their village after the latest eruption, just six years ago.
We stopped in wonder amid the frozen turmoil: solidified pillows and tangled ropes of lava flow and barren, menacing piles of ash from that awesome event. We were relieved to learn that there had been no loss of life.
Returning to the ship for a late lunch, we were soon called up on deck when we encountered a huge assembly of spotted dolphins, cavorting in our bow-wave and leaping high from wave-crests, all about us. We coasted past the westernmost island of the group, Brava, by now comfortably distinguishing tropic birds and shearwaters from gulls, as they came over to inspect the ship.
During the evening recap we learned more about the people, plants and geology of what we had seen. Then Toni, our video chronicler, showed us some rough cuts of the underwater footage she had shot during our encounter with the dolphins, and promised more to come.
Over dinner, the mood was one of feeling privileged to have shared this first visit by a Lindblad expedition to the Island of Fire in the Cape Verde group.
