Trollfjord is one of the smallest and prettiest of all the Norwegian fjords north of the Arctic Circle. Though only an appendix, its head is embraced by some of the most dramatic mountains you could imagine. It is named for the Scandinavian creatures, which still defy all attempts to be described in a proper scientific way. There are at least three sub-species: the sea trolls, feared even by the Vikings; the mountain trolls mainly distributed throughout Norway; and, last, the forest trolls, inhabiting the great forests of Sweden. It is believed that there is no high Arctic subspecies. For all we know they are nocturnal mammals, living by their very large noses (some have pine and spruce trees growing on them), since their eyesight is poorly developed. They are hunters and gatherers, which of course lead them to become thieves once humans started settling in the areas they vehemently claim are theirs. An obvious weakness is the dramatic change they undergo if they are hit by the sun's rays: they are petrified, turned into rock. Of course Trollfjorden is named for the huge amount of petrified specimens at the head of the fjord.
In the 1920's the little fjord was the scene for a large-scale battle between a fleet of traditional small-scale fishing boats and some modern ones. A group of the latter simply blocked the entrance to the fjord when herring had migrated in, filling the water with silvery flashes. The smaller boats tried to break through the water block to have a share, and what is known as the Battle of Trollfjord was a fact. In the end they were both losers when the herring was overfished and the population crashed in 1969.
This morning, in brilliant sunshine, the Caledonian Star paid a peaceful visit to this lovely place, where waterfalls tumble down the sheer rock faces, which in spite of their steepness house a bounty of wildflowers in rich, late summer bloom.
