Today we awoke to a gray and white world. The gray sea calm around us, the overcast skies raining soft snow down upon the ship. Those of us up early on the bridge watched as Deception Island slowly emerged from the fog and snow. Deception Island is an active volcano, although it has not erupted for the last 30 years. To enter into the now folded caldera of the original volcano, the ship must pass through a narrow opening called Neptune's Bellows. The ship will be in Port Foster. Port Foster is what remains of the old seal and whaling stations, an industry which dominated this part of the world in the early 1900's. Inside the bay, peaks of brown, and black ash beaches surround us. It reminds me of a futuristic earth you would see in a sci-fi movie.

Captain Skog does an incredible job of bringing the Caledonian Star so close to the beach that it seems one could drop down from the bow, and be on dry land. The Zodiac ride ashore takes no time at all, and I am walking the beach before I know it. As I walk I pass old fuel container, about the size of a three-story house, crumpled shacks, and gigantic whalebones: reminders of a past era. Deception Island seems almost surreal; a place caught between the present world of exploration cruising, and the Old World of whaling.

This afternoon some brave souls will test the waters here on Deception Island, as they attempt to swim where the hot sulfur springs and seawater mix. Everyday a new experience awaits those on board the Caledonian Star; just part of the magic that is Antarctica.