A short time after departing from Grytviken en route to our final destination in South Georgia we encountered more motion, it was a bit strange after enjoying such fair weather. We woke up to gray, wet, windy conditions and the ship continued to move about quite a lot. Out of the overcast situation the coast of South Georgia appeared as we made our approach to Elsehul.
Our morning operations began at the very reasonable time of 0830 hours when those who had chosen the walking option went ashore. They landed on a small pebbly beach with elephant seals and fur seals and then headed up a short rise and into the thick tussock grass towards the nesting gray-headed albatross and also hopefully some light-mantled sooty albatross.
The slips and struggles were richly rewarded with a wonderful few hours in the company of these magnificent birds. Some were already on their nests caring for their single egg while others were still going through their delicate and gentle courtship behavior. Then there were some who flew back and forth along the steep faces of the tussock-covered rock. It was a magical moment and all those who returned were in awe with what they had just experienced.
The rest of us opted for Zodiac cruises around the scenic bay. We were also richly rewarded with many opportunities to be in awe of the extraordinary wildlife that inhabits this amazing part of the planet. Gray-headed, black-browed, and light-mantled sooty albatross flew above us and nested on the steep, tussock-covered mountain sides and rocky outcrops. These gorgeous birds always delight with their grace and beauty. Occasionally their soulful calls could be heard and enjoyed, as the sounds seemed to hang on and on trapped in the steeply rising slopes. Lastly, along the way we came to a large, bare patch of open ground with a few black and white dots here and there. These were macaroni penguins gathering in their breeding area for a new breeding season. It was hard to visualize that in a few weeks time that area would be covered with hundreds of nesting birds.
Of course we were not to be deprived of seals. We saw many male fur seals at precise distances one from the other quietly waiting for the arrival of the females as well as many elephant seals. On occasion we were startled as we turned around to see that we were being closely watched by one of these immense mammals, their huge eyes set in a massive head, and then they would sink back into the water. On the beaches themselves the beach masters constantly monitored the movements of the males that were on the periphery of their harems as the females went about caring for their young pups, who occasionally mournfully bleated.
We were obliged to make a brief stop as we were invaded by a couple of Vikings. However we sighed with relief when we found out that these were the friendly variety—actually our hotel staff dressed up!—and what they had to offer us was a lovely cup of hot cocoa, which could be plied with some appropriate additives.
We also came across a large group of northern and southern giant petrels feeding on a dead elephant seal. It was incredible to watch these vultures of the sea tear apart the carcass and gulp down the flesh and blubber. Many of the birds had their wings opened and their tails fanned open. It could only be described as a feeding frenzy.
No matter what option we had chosen we all were in agreement that this remarkable morning was the icing on the South Georgia cake, a more fitting end to our stay here was hard to imagine.
A short time later we were tucking into our lunches as the ship sailed out into heavy seas. For the afternoon we had the opportunity of participating in a photo critique and after tea we were able to hear Jamling Tenzing Norgay give us a beautiful presentation on Everest and his father. During the afternoon we lost the lee of the Willis Islands and headed out into the Scotia Sea.
