Outside it is dark and one can only imagine the conditions outside as we topsy turvied in our beds. We had been told during the last Recap that conditions would get worse and it certainly felt that way.

At daybreak we stumbled out of beds, collected our thoughts, got dressed, and carefully ventured out of our cabins our worst fears were realized. We had received our payback for the exceptional crossing on our way south. Or maybe it could all be blamed on our shipmates who wished and wanted to experience a “real” Drake. If not it could all be apportioned to those who merrily had whistled about the ship throughout the voyage, especially whilst on the bridge.

But not all was lost for it turned out to be a fabulous day for seabirds. The big seas and winds were ideal for these magnificent birds to display all their flying skills. We saw one of the smallest, Wilson’s storm petrel,s and we were privileged to also marvel at the very largest flying bird on the planet, the magnificent wandering albatross. Even these giant 11-foot wing-spanned birds were at times dwarfed in the 26’ to 30’ waves. Of course these birds were well accompanied by the redoubtable giant petrels as well as painted, white chinned and blue petrels.

It was also an opportunity to hear our Global Perspectives guest speaker give a presentation on The Climate Record in Ice. It addressed a look at the Earth’s climate history preserved in ice and what it tells us about the changes we are seeing today. Then later on in the afternoon one of our naturalists, spoke to us on The Race to the Pole. It is a story that never ceases to grip our imagination.

After lunch the ship headed into the calmer waters as she found some protection from the Chilean Islands off to the west. However the fierce winds continued to rage outside and at times the waters where streaked white as the crests of the waves were whipped off. Later in the afternoon we sailed into the Beagle Channel.

The day ended with our captain hosting farewell cocktails and dinner. It certainly is a chance to reminisce about our extraordinary adventures together, be thankful for new shipmates and looking forward to our new roles as ambassadors for the Antarctic.

Shortly after dinner we were safely tied alongside in the port city of Ushuaia and thus a calm last night would be assured.