The day began with National Geographic Explorer crossing the Antarctic Circle (66 33.7S) at 06:57 hrs. Thus we are now truly in the Antarctic. The day dawned clear and sunny, befitting the Crystal Sound through which we were navigating. Those on the bridge were rewarded for getting up early by seeing breaching minke whales and humpbacks blowing in every direction. The low, clear light showed these spouts to good advantage.
We arrived at Detaille Island at 9:00 a.m., and the Zodiacs were deployed to see if a landing would be possible through the thick brash ice that surrounded the island. In true fashion the team returned saying a landing would be possible if challenging. Once on the island the guests were able to look around the old British base that was set up here in the early 1950s. Inside the building there was a feeling that the occupants had only recently left. Clothes, food, and furniture are all still in place, giving a flavor of what living and working there could have been like.
Outside the base, the guests took a walk over to the far side of the island to gain stunning views of the sound and the high glacier-covered mountains of Adelaide Island and the peninsula. There were also views across a small strait to an Adélie penguin rookery, which also included a few adult blue-eyed shags.
The bright sunshine continued, as those guests not on the island were treated to a Zodiac cruise amongst the brash ice and the large grounded icebergs. Humpback whales and leopard seals were seen frequently.
After lunch the ship cruised down towards the Isacke Passage to try and find fast ice. Although the ice remained elusive, some minke whales visited the ship so close that guests were photographing them from directly above. But the highlight of the afternoon was the pair of humpback whales bubblenet feeding very close to the bow of the ship. This was a rare view of a unique activity. The sound of camera shutters as the whales emerged in the middle of the ring of bubbles showed the excitement of all.
To bring this marvelous day to a fitting close Eduardo proposed a toast to “The Boss”—Sir Ernest Shackleton and followed it with an information-packed presentation of the 1914-17 adventure.
