Capurgana and Sapzurro, Colombia, 10/26/2022, National Geographic Quest
Aboard the
National Geographic Quest
Costa Rica, Panama & Colombia
Colombia welcomed us with a wonderful day, opening the doors of Eden for National Geographic Quest and sharing this magical territory with us for the first time.
Full of excitement to start discovering the two beautiful bays of Capurgana and Sapzurro, we divided into several groups to enjoy different activities.
One of these activities was trekking along a 3.9 km path from Capurgana all the way to Sapzurro. This beautiful journey through the tropical rainforest delighted our senses. We listened to the howler monkeys and observed different types of reptiles and birds.
During the afternoon, the Capurgana community extended an invitation to tour around town and walk through its streets. The day ended with a magnificent artistic performance at the town’s public school. This was so enriching because we were able to experience the human quality, warmth, and joy of this incredible Colombian region.
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Guna Yala, the Land of the Guna. A land full of mysticism, magic, and legend from both nature and people. It was the perfect backdrop to meet those who are often known as “the people who would not kneel,” the Gunas. Considered one of the three largest indigenous groups in Panama, the Gunas can be found on a narrow strip of land in an archipelago of over 365 islands located on the east coast of Caribbean Panama. Known as a proud and resilient group, they claim to own an island for every single day of the year. For our morning expedition, we visited a small section of the untouched and holy mainland by navigating via Zodiac on one of the river systems, Rio Canita. Here, locals explained the importance of medicinal plants to their culture and how they preserve the forest of their land, thereby preserving this culture for all the Gunas to come. The connection people have with the land connects them to their future and to their past. In a very intimate visit to one of their burial sites at the end of the river, we learned about the strong bonds people maintain with lost loved ones by giving them to the land, together with personal belongings that help prepare the loved ones for their journey to an afterlife. Later, we had an opportunity to visit one of the largest communities on one of the most inhabited islands nearby. We learned about the people’s education, their lifestyle, and one of the most striking features of their culture, the Molas. A reverse applique technique that has been carried on by generations of women, traditional stories of men and nature are layered in different fabrics, cut away, and stitched to reveal intricate designs of color and pattern. Finally, in the afternoon, we were delighted with a visit to Anmardub. This island is packed with coconut trees, white sand beaches, and crystal-clear waters surrounded by coral reefs and seagrass. We enjoyed snorkeling, stand-up paddleboarding, and kayaking. We drank coconut milk straight from the drupe and enjoyed a dance and music show put on by some of the locals. It was truly a spectacular visit to a very unique place on the Caribbean Coast of Panama. Next up…Colombia.
We enjoyed a spectacular early morning entrance into the historical Spanish fortification of Portobelo, which is tucked into the only protected area east of the Panama Canal on the northern Isthmian coast. Discovered by Cristopher Columbus in 1502, the area eventually became a famous Spanish port. Most of the Peruvian gold and silver arrived on the Pacific shores of Panama and was then transported overland by mules to Portobelo and transship back to Spain. We departed the ship on our first leg to enjoy a historical tour of this colorful Caribbean town surrounded by three main forts, a customs house, and the famous church of Black Christ. Recently, devotees made the legendary four-day pilgrimage to pay respect to Jesus of Nazareth. They walk from many regions of Panama and Central America for the annual tradition that takes place on the 21st of October. We enjoyed our time mingling with these friendly people and admiring the work of exquisite local artisans. Portobelo was a wonderful start to our Caribbean expedition of the coast of Panama and Colombia. Our afternoon was equally eventful. We enjoyed a performance by dazzling Congo dancers as they depicted a time of African slavery. The songs and dances of a people who survived those brutal times made up the heartbeat of our visit to Portobelo. We also took advantage of the spectacular bay to enjoy late afternoon Zodiac rides through the rivers and mangrove that surround these forts. We saw many herons, ibises, and two- and three-toed sloths. Today was an epic day.
