The National Geographic Sea Bird remained anchored overnight at Los Titeres, in the southern end of Boca de Soledad. We awoke this morning to 61 degrees Fahrenheit (16 degrees Celsius). The water was dead calm, which meant no wind, which also meant.... fog. Our main event of the day: getting a closer look at the gray whales by Zodiac, alternating with the option to go ashore and walk the desert dunes and shoreline.
Loaded with cameras and blue-striped towels, whale-watchers descended into Zodiacs to explore the waters. Due to the fog, the first round went by sound, listening for blows through the mist. It took a bit of patience, but finally we found them. At one point there were 5 cow/calf pairs all around the boats, breathing and rolling and sometimes coming in for a curious poke at the big black human toys, with extended tentacles splashing the water and perchance landing on blubber. Incredible! In round two, there were several playful pairs, and one in particular whose mom logged at the surface while baby went around to various boats saying hello. Both mom and baby seemed to enjoy lifting up the end of a boat every so often with their rostrums. The baby seemed to roam quite far from mom on several occasions for long periods of time, something I had not seen before. Mom’s head was beautifully decorated with geometric patterns made up of the barnacles and sea lice.
The afternoon brought us another round of uplifting experiences watching and interacting with the whales, and walks along the shifting sand dunes of Isla Magdalena. Everything is written in the sand here… the wind and water patterns, activities of creatures – past and present, and the small resilient plants that make their home here.
Back onboard for the evening, we were treated to music by local musicians Los Coyotes de Magdalena, and a delicious Mexican Fiesta dinner. Aye Carumba! Another beautiful day in Baja California.
