The National Geographic Sea Bird remained at anchor throughout the night, in the northern end of Bahia Magdalena. Blows from California gray whales could be heard whenever one ventured out onto deck. The Pacific Ocean sent in its usual evening marine layer of cloud cover, muting the sounds of mother and baby gray blows as whales surfaced, took a breath and dove once again...into their winter home in Boca de Soledad. These wintering grounds have been home to California gray whales migrating from the Chukchi and Bering Seas for many thousands of years. It is here that these unusual whales mate and give birth to the next generation of gray whales. Also, in these protected saltwater lagoons, a unique behavior has been occurring since February of 1972 when a Mexican fisherman named Mayoral “Pachico” found himself in the presence of a “friendly” California gray whale. From that year forward interaction between human beings and gray whales has continued changing the lives of many people who come with understandably high expectations and yet no understanding of how the actual experience of feeling the soft skin of a marine mammal under their finger tips will change their lives forever.
The first light of day was magically silver in color, as a thin cloud layer covered the landscape. Expedition landing craft were lowered from the top of the Sea Bird as breakfast was served in the dining room. Out of the thin mist our local pangueros arrived by panga from the near by town of Lopez Mateos. Once breakfast was finished our group was divided into two groups and half entered the world of gray whales. Two of our expedition landing craft traveled a short distance and a cow/calf pair looked very interesting to both naturalists and our local pangueros! Within moments the magic of the place reached us all as a small baby gray whale pushed its nose up against our small boat. Human hands reached out and made contact with an immediate response from both the whale and humans of joy. The remainder of our morning was spent searching out compatible interaction with gray whale mothers and babies. We were rewarded again and again, experiencing tender encounters with gentle, sentient marine mammals. As each hand reached into the watery world of the grey whale that same person’s face softened and an expression and feeling of quiet delight reached out and filled the boat.
Expedition landing craft came and went between the sand dune shore, whale watching, lunch, and back again...filling our morning and afternoon with endless encounters, stories to tell, laughter, and an understanding of how a brief moment can bring about change...albeit, short and concise, but still a broader awareness of this unique corner of the world, its inhabitants, on land and in the water...reminding us all of the affectionate name often given to the Baja Peninsula; “a desert by the sea.”
