Many of us were already in the lounge with coffee this morning when the sun came up, gently waking up to a new day in a spectacular setting. It was a perfect day, with clear skies overhead, rosy light from behind the highest point of the island, and calm seas.
Once on shore, the walking was as easy as it gets here in Galapagos. The National Park Service has built an excellent boardwalk with steps and handrail, all the way to the top! Bartholomew is a very dry, arid island, too low to catch the clouds and in the rain-shadow of the larger island of Santa Cruz to the southeast. Ash, cinder, tuff and the pioneer plants Tequilia and Chamaesyce dominate the landscape, along with the occasional lava lizard and footprints of perhaps a mockingbird?
Once on top of the world, the view was ours. The direction we instinctively look towards is the west. Our eyes are drawn down the beige slopes of Bartholomew, cross over the verdant green mangrove forest lying at sea level. They encompass the two golden crescent beaches on either side, north and south, both green turtle nesting habitat. The north beach has the famous “Pinnacle Rock” just on its western edge. If we let our eyes wander further out, beyond Pinnacle Rock, over the remaining tuff cones of the island, they jump across a narrow stretch of water and land on the island of Santiago. Immediately across from Bartholomew, the shore of Santiago is made up of dark, new, fresh (relatively) lava. By chance, someone was anchored nearby in 1897 and was witness to the eruption that covered almost 50 square miles. Above this stark landscape, up into the interior of the island, clouds were gathered and hiding the verdant green highlands. Somewhere up there, giant tortoises wandered and lived out a lifestyle they have been following for millennia.
After breakfast, we were once more gathered at the disembarkation door, ready to make a beach landing with snorkeling gear ready. For the rest of the morning, we all came and went from the beach into the water, from the water onto the beach. Ghost crabs had been busy since the early morning lowering tide, and had left numerous of what I call their “spit balls” behind; tiny pellets left over after they have removed the algae deposited on the beach by the ocean tides.
The snorkelers had great experiences: parrotfish, damselfish, stingray, eagle ray, white-tipped reef sharks (!); and the top sighting…Galapagos penguins!
The afternoon was equally filled with activities: a presentation on Charles Darwin, a pass-by of one of the Bainbridge Islets (flamingoes sighted!), and snorkeling along the shore of Santiago, across from Sombrero Chino (more penguins! Sharks! Rays!). For the hour before sunset, we offered Zodiac rides along the shore, hoping against hope that the penguins would by then be hopping out onto the shore in preparation for the night. Success! Stunning success, actually, because we found 15 penguins on one rock just before sunset!
Phew. It was a tremendously full day, justifiably celebrated with a barbecue dinner out on deck under the waning moon. What a delight to spend these magnificent moments with people who have come from so far to see everything they can possibly see. Given my position as Photo Instructor, it has been tremendously gratifying to see how many have taken my suggestions to heart, and have been coming up with great photos for the collection we are making on board. Tomorrow night will be the grand premier showing of our guest’s slide show!
