Alpefjord, Greenland, 9/13/2022, National Geographic Endurance
Aboard the
National Geographic Endurance
Arctic
After a snowy passage north, we woke at the mouth of Alpefjord in time to watch the fog dissipate and the snow-dusted mountains of Greenland National Park appear from within. We spent the early morning exploring the fjord system, and we encountered several groups of muskoxen from the ship. By the time breakfast had finished, the mountains were reflected in the glassy fjord, and we had arrived at a spectacular glacier. Naturally, we launched the Zodiacs for a two-hour cruise amongst the incredible scenery. I am not sure that anyone on board expected today to be so stunning. After a burger lunch, we went ashore for some hiking on the tundra and were lucky enough to encounter a group of muskoxen.
Jamie is from England. He grew up in Oxford, about as far from the sea as you can get in the UK, yet somehow decided he would work in marine biology and conservation. Ever since he reached his teens, he has dedicated time to this passion, working and...
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During the night National Geographic Endurance sailed along the long Nordenfjorden and in the morning stopped some distance from the fjord’s end. Today was our last day within the mainland of Norway and it was full of wonderful events. The scenery was gorgeous – blue sky, vertical cliffs plunging into calm blue water, steep slopes covered with birch forest and, in the distance, an edge of a glacier covering the top of the mountains. After breakfast, the guests had a choice of long and medium walks, a photo walk, and kayaking. There were no trails in the area and we had to bushwhack our way to higher points for breathtaking views over surrounding mountains, fjords, and distant glaciers. The medium and photo walkers were able to switch with kayakers mid-morning and enjoy both activities before the lunch. During lunch, the captain brought us to the end of the fjord. We came closer to the glacier and enjoyed the changing view of cliffs, slopes, and waterfalls. After lunch, we cruised along these cliffs in Zodiacs. Curious but apprehensive harbor seals surfaced here and there, watching us from a distance. The water was so clear and the cliffs were so vertical that guests were able to spot sea urchins, sea stars and other bottom-dwellers underwater. Zodiacs approached waterfalls within the sprinkling zone and, in a small secluded fjord, guests were delightfully surprised by a hotel staff Zodiac serving a selection of drinks. After the recap and dinner (excellent as always), the guests were invited to watch the Aurora Borealis, which was getting brighter and more colorful as the night progressed. Tomorrow will be a day at sea, so many guests stayed late to view the spectacle in the sky.
In the morning, we arrived at the very picturesque and beautiful town of Reine, also known as the cod capital of Norway. The cod racks are empty this time of year, but normally you find thousands and thousands of cod hanging to dry, ready to be shipped of to all parts of the world. Our guests strolled around for the better part of the morning, some of them venturing further than others, who instead were basking in the sun and enjoying an ice cream. The fishing community is also an adventure gateway, with high mountains that promise unforgettable hikes. We took our hike at the most southern part of the Lofoten Islands. The small island of Vaeroya used to be home to fishermen but now only hosts summer residents due to its remoteness. Our more adventurous and feisty guests hiked all the way up to the top to enjoy the most stunning view. The guests who chose to stay further down had the pleasure of strolling around the pristine grounds of the old village.
Our exploration of coastal Norway continued today with a stop deep into Tysfjorden, one of the major fjords of Norway. At the far south end is a small settlement of summer homes known as Hellemobotn, translated as “end of the fjord.” Guests joined in a variety of hikes through a boreal forest along a trail that follows a glacier fed stream. A few of the heartiest hikers joined the strenuous hike to the top of the waterfall, while most enjoyed a more leisurely hike to the waterfall’s base. The trail is lined with birch, pine, and juniper trees, mixed with crowberry bushes and mushrooms. Just before dinner, National Geographic Endurance explored Trollfjord, a very short yet very narrow fjord. Entering this fjord gives the bridge team a chance to show off their navigation skills and take advantage of the ship’s incredible maneuverability. A visit to Trollfjord isn’t complete without bringing the ship right up to the edge of the sheer cliff face, sometimes even close enough to pick a leaf from a tree branch!
